Eye care cosmetics
( Eyeliner)

Best eye liner ( introduction, ingredients, formulation, functions & application)

Introduction:-

Eyeliner is applied along the upper and lower hairlines of the eyelashes with a fine brush to emphasize the impression given by the eyes and make them more attractive.

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The following types of eyeliner are available on the market:-

Liquid form

(Water based & oil based)

  1. Film type
  2. Non film type

Solid form

(Powder based)

  1. Powder compact type
  2. Pencil type

Although there are many types of liquid form eyeliner, in all types pigments are dispersed through a low viscosity liquid in such a way that no setting of occurs.

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The Quality requirements of eyeliner:-

  1. The eyeliner must be absolutely no irritation as they are applied to the edge of the eyes.
  2. They must dry quickly ( particularly in the case of people with double folded in eyelids for whom, it would be unpleasant if drying were slow the eyes must be closed until the eyeliner has dried.
  3. They should be easy to apply.
  4. The film should have flexibility.
  5. The finished eye makeup should look attractive.
  6. The makeups should last well it should not shed off, smudge or crack.
  7. Eyeliner should be waterproof & not be spoiled or come off with sweat or tears.
  8. There should be no prescription or separation of pigment.
  9. There should be no microbial contamination.
  10. The main constituent of the film type, which is much used is a polymer emulsion, after application when the water in the formula vaporises, a cool film is form with a luster which doesn't run with the sweat or tears and it can be removed as one piece by wetting with remover.

Typical formula of film type eyeliner:-

 

Ingredients

Quantity

(%)

1

Black iron oxide

14.0%

2

Polyvinyl acetate emulsion

45.0%

3

Glycerin

5%

4

Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate

1%

5

Carboxymethyl  cellulose

15.0%

6

Acetyl trubutyl citrate

2.0%

7

Preservatives

Q.s

8

Perfumes

Q.s

9

Purified water

19.0%

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Manufacturing procedure:-

  1. Weight all ingredients with the help of weighing machine.
  2. Add the glycerin & polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate to the purified water & heat to dissolve the ingredients.
  3. Then add the black iron oxide & grind in a colloidal mill ( pigment components).
  4. Heat other ingredients together to 70°c with stirring.
  5. Add the pigment components to this and disperse evenly using a homomixer.

Formulation details:-

In the formulation of this  type, the most important thing is the selection of the polymer emulsion, so it should be chosen with consideration for the eyeliner usability and should thus enable the eyeliner to put easily on the brush, should not make skin feel light and should remain even and the last well. It should also be highly safe, care is needed  because some polymer emulsion on the market contain type of surfactants, anti-corrosives, preservatives and monomers which would be undesirable for Cosmetics. Attention must also be paid to differences in regulation from country to country.
Other ingredients are chosen with the same degree of astringency but in aqueous system it is easy for them to interact chemically & coagulate making pigments prone to people. Freezing may causes irreversible changes so severe high & low temperature test should be carried out.
Furthermore because it is so easy for micro-organisms to multiply in a aqueous system, attention must also be paid to sterilisation during manufacturing. Polyhydric alcohols prevent freezing & assist in preservation.

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Typical formula 2 ( felt pan type eyeliner) :-

Sr. No

Components

Ingredients

Quantity

1

Pigment

Carbon black

5%

2

Dispersant

Polyoxyethylene (10) dodelyl ether

2%

3

Humectant

Glycerin

10%

4

Water

Water

83%

5

Preservatives

 

Q.s

6

Perfume

 

Q.s

Manufacturing procedure:-

After dissolving the dispersant in the water, add the carbon black & grind in ball mill. The ratio of powder to water size of the ball & quantity ratio between the powder ease & base & the ball will greatly affect the grinding efficiency.
Add the preservatives and perfume to some purified water & use this to dilute the pigment dispersion produced by grinding.

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Features of felt pan type eyeliner:-

The special feature of this eyeliner is its extremely low viscosity.

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